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REF: http://www.biblio.com/book/mending-stitch-stitch-anne-i-g/d/157928888


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MENDING Stitch by Stitch
by Anne I. G. Begg

Material used for patching or darning should be as near the original as possible in colour and texture. A mend should cover both hole and thin place surrounding it.

Rules for Darning
When darning stockinette garments, leave loops of thread to allow for shrinkage and to allow for stretch in stockinette.
Do not let rows of darning finish on same line of weave as this weakens it, but let darns be uneven in outline.
Darn the way of the weave, first, and then cross the darn, keeping lines of darning parallel to weave.
Darn on wrong side of material.

Rules for Patching
Patches are generally square or rectangular in shape, but only because it is thus easier to turn in edges. Where no turnings are required, e.g. kid glove, patch can be round.
Threads and pattern of patch must follow those of garment.
Patches must not be placed over hems or seams; these must first be unpicked, patch put on and new hem or seam stitched on to patch.
When stitching a patch on always start in the middle of a side - never at a corner.

Darning
Darning is used to repair thin places and small holes in garments. Large holes are repaired more invisibly by patching—except for woven materials, e.g. stockings, vests, etc., which are generally darned.
All darning is done on the wrong side of material.

Shapes of Darns
These should not be such that darn finishes on same line of loops. Therefore round, diamond, wave, octagonal, are all suitable shapes.

To Darn Hole in Stocking
Decide shape of darn. Start by leaving short end of wool and leave loops at end of each line of darning. When hole is reached, needle must go through loops left round hole. Keep stitches evenly in and out of stocking. To cross-darn work over hole only, weave over and under strands of wool covering hole.

Hedge Tear Darn
The hedge tear generally occurs on outer garments, as it is caused by material being caught on a nail or hook. There is thus no thin place round it. With the exception of a tears on silk or cotton this is always darned and on woollens can be made quite invisible. Mend on the wrong side of material. To prevent edges slipping, pin square of stiff paper behind tear. Draw edges together with fishbone stitch.

To Darn
On woollens either silk thread or thread frayed from similar material is used for mending.
Start darning above end of tear, following direction of threads. When near corner leave needle threaded. With new thread darn other side in same way. Using two needles alternately, double-darn the corner of tear. This prevents frayed point getting pulled into a hole.

Cross-Cut Darn
This is used generally on table linen either to darn a thin place or a cut. It is darned on the wrong side of unstarched material, using a linen floss or flax thread to darn with.

To Mark Shape of Darn
Put ruler along hole and mark points AB so much beyond each end of hole. Following thread up and down through A, mark so much above and below. Mark same through B. This makes rectangle DCEF and is shape for darning.

To Cross-darn
From A measure so much to right and left of A along thread going across. Mark same at B. This gives other rectangle for darning across.
When finished starch and iron linen. Darning sinks into material and is almost invisible on right side.